In my first few days in the country I soon lost interest in its latest dictator and the subject of my article. Presenting himself as a messianic figure, as poor as the people and as humble as the Prophet, Calir took no time at all in showing off his Rolex collection to the Russian delegation I was shadowing inside the small house he claimed as his permanent residence.
I was instead fascinated by the people he ruled over, their struggles with the unprecedented drought and the fishing industry that had all but dried up in oil-slick and overfished waters. Their resilience was astonishing. Perhaps under the same circumstances, anyone would act with the same hardiness, given they had no real choice, but that didn’t diminish just how incredible their spirit was.
I was lucky enough to be there when it rained for the first time in eight months. It was only for three minutes but the whole city came alive, running out from their homes, from their stalls and shops, to embrace the small gift from heaven. There was such ardent, unabashed joy for that brief moment. I hear that Calir didn’t so much as glance out the window.
Paddy Dobson
21st September 2023